Pattern re-write: Simplicity 2250 lining

Pattern instructions are quite inscrutable sometimes. Often, looking at the diagrams works better than deciphering the instructions. Before I started sewing this last dress, I checked out pattern reviews to see if there were any tricks to it. Of the eight reviews, five mentioned problems with the lining; most just scrapped it and left the interlining as is.

So, for my pattern reviewing friends and any others who want to make Simplicity 2250, a brief lining tutorial:

*Note: I found the lining pattern was a bit short, so I added 2" to the bottom of each piece.

1. Pin straps to the front of the bodice. This ensures they won't get caught in the stitching accidentally (I'm not the only one who's done something like that, right?)

2. Flip over the casing so the raw edges are on the top. You'll only need a few pins to help it stay put.

3. Right sides together, line up bodice and lining. Make sure to match the centers! Stitch along seam allowance.

4. Optional - To top-stitch the lining, just turn your lining to the inside, keeping the main bodice pressed out. Stitch just below the new seam using small stitches.

And you're done! This is a pretty common lining technique - I used it on another dress, attaching the lining to the neckband facing. I have to say, I love linings - they make the finished garment feel so luxe and it just looks so professional. So happy linings to you, friends, til we meet again!

New Dress Tuesday: Simplicity 2250

It's done!  I've been working on this dress off and on for about a month - I just haven't had much time for sewing, but I had to finish because I'm dying to wear this dress!

I fell in love with this Cynthia Rowley pattern as soon as I saw it and I was so excited when the fabric came in the mail.  It's from Mood and it's perfect: kind of 60s, but kind of modern pixel-y and the prettiest salmon color.  I really like it with this pattern - I think it works with all the tucks and pleats in the bodice.

The bodice is a bit tricky as far as fitting goes.  There are about three darts on each side, each in a different length.  I had a hard time adjusting it down to fit, but it ended up fitting pretty well.  Definitely make a muslin of the bodice if you want to try this pattern!

The bodice has an interlining and a lining as well - I used a coordinating china silk and I love the finished look it gives the dress.  The pattern instructions for the lining aren't well-written, so I'm going to do a tutorial for it, if you're interested in making this dress.

Also, I used horsehair braid on the hem!  I've been wanting to try it since I read Gertie's tutorial and I love the effect on a fullish skirt like this.  The skirt is a gathered and pleated rectangle skirt, so the horsehair braid really helps the skirt "float" instead of just hang.  I'm really happy with the way the whole dress turned out - I've already worn it twice and can't wait to wear it again!

We were sewing along . . .

My sewing machine's first outing: the Swing Dress Sew-Along, hosted by Casey at Elegant Musings!

I've wanted to do a sew-along for a few months and this seemed like a perfect opportunity: the pattern is relatively straightforward, but versatile (hooray for multiple uses!) and Casey is one of my favorite vintage sewing bloggers!

I had a hard time deciding between a solid wool and a cotton floral, but my springtime wishful thinking won out: 

It's a more modern-looking floral, but I like the contrast with the vintage-style pattern.  Ordering fabric online is a bit stressful because you can't see how sheer a fabric is or how the print might look on a larger-scale item.  It's better than the alternative, though (Joann's poly-blend), so fingers crossed that it's the right fabric for the dress!

Anyway, I'm excited to get sewing and I'll probably post a few progress pictures in the next few weeks or so.

How tu-tu

I made this girly little tutu as a Christmas gift for my girly little 3-year-old cousin.  I'm so excited for her to open it!

There are dozens of tutu tutorials around - I've made the no-sew version before and they're cute.  I wanted to use tulle, but have a similar look to these pettiskirts from Martha.  I couldn't find what I was looking for, so I ended up making up my own pattern.  I thought I'd make a how-to (which I haven't done before) in case anyone wanted to try my way. 
 
Here's what you need:
about 8-12 yards* of tulle
about 1/2 yard of matching lining
9-12 yards* of ribbon
3/4" - 1" wide elastic
matching thread, scissors, pins, ect.

*The lowest yardage is what I used for a 3-year-old size, but I added the higher yardage for older kids.

 . . . and here's what you do:
Skirt
1. Take waist measurement and add 1" seam allowance for width; measure for desired length and add 1" seam allowance.  Mark measurements on lining and cut out.  Fabric will be a large rectangle.

2. Place elastic along top of lining & mark 1/4" below.

3.  Fold along marked line and stitch to form elastic casing.

4. Fold fabric in half widthwise and sew with a 1/2" seam allowance to elastic casing.

Finish seam with your preferred method.  Hem bottom of skirt to desired length.  Set skirt aside. 

Christmas apron!

Awhile ago, I mentioned that I'm making Christmas aprons for my sister, Mom, and me.  Sadly, all sewing was put aside when the house addition started and the sewing room became the depository for displaced furniture, clothing, boxes, and books.

Oh, look!  I am stirring a bowl of mime food!

I've been itching to keep sewing, so I snuck the sewing machine down to an empty corner in my room and made my apron yesterday!

The fabric deserves its own close-up:

When I saw the colorful 50s-style illustrations, it had to be mine.  It's too perfect.  The polka-dots fit with the cute housewifey feel of my main fabric - I'm really happy with the way they worked together for the finished product. 

*As a side note, I think apron-making has become so popular because of the proliferation of quilting fabric.  It's hard to go to JoAnn's and find a nice wool or silk for a dress, but cute quilt fabric is available in abundance.  Oh, small towns.  I both love and hate you at the same time. 

I ended up using the "Twirl, Girl!" pattern from the A is for Apron book (available at the Logan Library!).  It's a super easy pattern - there's only two pattern pieces that are cut out five times.  The pieces are sewn together to form one section and the five sections are sewn together, forming a swingy gored apron front.  After that, you just add the waistband and ties and you're done!  The whole project took about an hour and a half - such an easy pattern with such an adorable result!

I can't wait to wear it while making Christmas treats!

The New Encyclopedia of Modern Sewing

This is what I was hoping to find at Books of Yesterday - it's a sewing reference from 1943.  I'm hoping that it would be useful when sewing from vintage patterns.

The book has some nice basic patterns for clothing and home decor - the decor is a little frilly (well, a lot frilly), but the clothing patterns are good.  There's a great pattern for a basic dirndl that I can't wait to use, as well as some cute, basic apron patterns.

I'm most excited for the "Flossy Touches" chapter, which contains a reference for basic embroidery stitches, as well as some cute ways to combine these stitches.

Also, it has instructions for applique and some sweet, very 40s floral applique templates, as well as monogram templates for all your handkerchiefs, pajamas, and linens.

I think the illustration style from the 40s is so cute, but the way everything has a face is a little funny to me.  A few examples:

And finally, a bit of pre-feminist imagry:

She's an angel, you see, because she made the table cloth, napkins, and the meal.

I've posted more pictures from this book on Flickr, so have a look!

New Dress Sunday

My new fall/winter dress is done!  (Mostly)

The Grandma Carole Pose - all the 50s/60s-era pictures of her and her sisters show them standing like this, all in a row.

It's taken me so long to complete that I had to wear it today, even though I've not finished the belt. I found some old fabric-covered buckle kits on Etsy and I'm excited to have a ladylike, perfectly-matched belt for this dress.  I just haven't had the time to finish it yet!

The dress pattern itself wasn't terribly complicated - it was all the details that took so long. The pattern I have is made for a gal about a size and a half smaller than me, but I was actually excited to learn about pattern grading.  The article I found most useful was from Threads Magazine - it has a good reference picture for cut lines and a chart with common "spread" amounts. 


This is the first time I've made a muslin, also.  For the most part, I've just done a pin-fitting with the pattern pieces and for simple modern patterns, that's fine.  However, since I had to grade this pattern and transfer the pieces onto muslin anyway, I thought I'd give it a shot.  I was glad I did, because the waistline needed to be let out more and the bust needed taken in (those 50s girls with their tiny waists and big busts!).  Also, the sleeves ended closer to the shoulder than I wanted, so I was able to adjust that and make them into a longer cap sleeve.

The pattern had no instructions for a lining, so I just made a second dress out of lining and attached it at the neckline interfacing.  It ended up working and made the dress feel "finished".  Other time-consuming, but ultimately good things I did: twill tape at the neckline to help the notch lay flat, hand-stitched the hem and the arm openings, and "hand-picked" the side zipper for an added vintage touch. 

The wool gabardine is just the right weight for fall - it's heavy enough to be warm, but it's not so heavy that I couldn't wear this into spring.  I ordered too much, so I might make a skirt with the leftover.  Overall, I'm really happy with this dress - I think it's lovely and I'm proud of myself for learning a few new things in order to make it!

To-do list

My sewing queue:
Butterick 6448 (vintage): I was excited to find this pattern on ebay - I ordered some navy wool gabardine from Fashion Fabrics Club for a fall dress and this pattern is exactly what I had in mind! The square neckline with the notch is a huge selling point for me; in general, it's just a lovely dress with a silhouette that works for my body type (love the 50s nipped-waists!). This will be the first vintage pattern I've actually sewn, so wish me luck!

New Skirt Sunday

I wasn't happy with the last skirt I did (Simplicity 2416 - do not get me started on the pocket situation in the instructions for that skirt!), so I took a break from sewing for a couple weeks. However, a good ol' fabric sale brought me back!

I went a taaad overboard, piling up bolts and bolts of fabric for Halloween and Christmas, but at least I've got a good to-do list going (more on that later). Further, I found a lovely green linen/rayon blend that's the perfect weight for a fall skirt:

skirt: made by me, Simplicity 2315
top: Elle (yes, it's from Kohls)
shoes: Steve Madden, thrifted
earrings: Liz Claiborne
"M" initial necklace: Etsy

I used Simplicity 2315, which was an exceptionally simple, straightforward pattern. The construction is really basic - simple seams, a back zip, and a little bit of detail work at the waist. It's a good starter pattern if you're new to sewing (or a nice quick project if you're more experienced).

I have to admit, I was late for church and didn't have a whole lot of time to come up with a complete, cute ensemble. I'll probably wear a different top next time (and hopefully, my hair will look less spinster librarian-ish!). I've got a long-sleeved white shirt that I want to wear with it, once the weather starts acting like it's fall!
Overall, I'm happy with how this one turned out. The fabric is such a great color and I adore the bow at the waist. Also, it's got me excited about my upcoming projects!

Another DI find post

In which I display the remainder of my vintage pattern haul:

probably mid-1950s

McCall's 4344: This is the illustration from the instructions - I couldn't find the cover picture anywhere. I probably won't make this dress - I've nowhere to wear it! - but it's such a classic 50s silhouette that I had to buy it.

DI find of the week!

Trips to the DI (Utah's Goodwill) are a good Monday adventure. Sometimes I go through the whole women's clothing section or I browse through the records and books. But Deseret Industries Adventures always include three stops: the dress section, the furniture section, and the sewing pattern section.

Most of the time, the patterns are from the 80s-early 90s, occasionally going back to the 70s. Rarely, I'll find a pattern or so from the 60s. But today, this day of days, someone cleared out their extensive collection of patterns - someone who probably owned a fabric store during the 40s and 50s!
Behold:

pattern copyright 1948

Simplicity 7260: This might be my favorite, because it's so wearable. Just a simple dress with some cute detailing at the top - it's kind of summery, so I might need to wait until next year . . . unless I can find the perfect fall/winter fabric!

probably early or mid-1940s

Simplicity 2676: This one is in the most delicate condition - it's falling apart pretty badly and the pieces are traced copies of the originals. But I picked it up because I really like the top right dress - I'd do the skirt knee-length, but I'd leave the rest because I love the princess-seaming.

pattern copyright 1950

Simplicity 3215: I love a poufy skirt and I think all skirts and dresses need pockets. I couldn't leave this one on the shelf, even though it's missing the instructions. This one is pretty versatile, too: it would work with a summer or winter-weight fabric. I'm liking the separates option - the top is cute and the skirt is everything I love about skirts!

Most of the patterns came in manila envelopes, so I found the corresponding images at Vintage Pattern Wiki and glued them to the front of the pattern (Simplicity 2676 is my copy, though). In all honesty, I'm having fun just looking at them. Vintage pattern illustrations are so sweet!

I have several more, so look forward to those later - one is a Gidgit-style swimsuit!

Sewing Machine Attack!

I've been sewing up a storm lately. I seem to go through a sewing phase every year or so, where I'm obsessed for weeks and then drop it for months and months.

Anyway, I've done a couple of skirts in the past few weeks - I'm most proud of this one:The fabric is a linen I found on clearance at Joann's - I really loved the super-girly stripey pink. There was just enough left on the bolt to make this skirt!I've had this pattern - Simplicity 2444 - for several months and never got around to making it. I own a very similar dress already, so I've not felt a pressing need for another one. However, I really love the pleated skirt (with pockets, of course!) from the dress - it's also super-girly, so I thought it would be a good match for the fabric.